Why ‘vacillating’ you say? Vietnam is a Communist country. We had to get a special Visa to enter Vietnam. No big deal, we’ve gotten Visas before. But Vietnam has a mixed-socialist economy. What the heck does that mean? According to Wikipedia, from the 1980s through the Đổi Mới reform period, Vietnam shifted from a highly centralized and failing economy to a mixed economy. It accepts private businesses and international trade in conjunction with government-provided services, such as military, utilities, security, and education. The reunified Vietnam after 1975 relied on communist aid until the collapse of the Soviet Union. But even with Soviet aid, it didn’t work. The economy was plagued by inefficiencies, corruption, and incompetence.
As one guide told us, the soviet model was failing and people were starving. Farms failed because, as our guide explained, each farmer was paid the same no matter how hard he chose to work. Most didn’t work very hard. Therefore, low production and not enough to eat. This problem was systemic. Our guide extolled President Bill Clinton for getting Vietnam to make changes. “Bill Clinton said we needed to open up for trade, allow private enterprise and free communication.” That did the trick. They are now thriving economically. But the thought police of communist control is still very much alive and in charge.
Our first stop was an overnight trip to Hanoi. We wanted to see this city we’d heard so much about. One of the places we visited was the Hanoi Hilton. I was nervous about visiting a place of torture, pain, and death. But I still wanted to see the place where our brave pilots were held for years and years. I wanted to see how Vietnam presented that prison in this “open era” of communication and trade. Larry and I decided we would not take pictures inside. We felt it would be disrespectful to the men who suffered and died there. Sadly, our younger fellow passengers held no such compunction and happily snapped their way through the maze of buildings, cells, and courtyards. They even bought souvenirs in the gift shop. The photos above are all I have of the Hanoi Hilton. Most of the prison rooms displayed graphic reminders of torture techniques used under French rule until the negotiated Geneva Accord of 1954.
The French left and the country was split in two, setting up the Vietnam War as we know it. Larry entered one of the tiny cells, closing the solid steel door behind him. He sat there for maybe seven or eight minutes. A small, barred window near the ceiling was open for light, heat, and torrential rain. Markings on the walls were covered by painted wood panels. Larry sat there until the walls closed in and visions turned dark. How did our men make it? Some didn’t. Those who lived bore the pain in their bodies and minds for the rest of their lives. The picture above left is of a “memorial” to John McCain, who was pulled from a lake on the outskirts of Hanoi after his plane was shot down. Now the lake is in the center of a larger Hanoi. The guides referred to their treatment of McCain as “kind and merciful” and that they gave him caring medical care. This was the Communist mantra we heard time and again. They had pictures of McCain and others wincing as they supposedly received the ‘best of medical care’ we know was totally absent. Looking at this memorial of McCain being “saved” from the lake, one can see plainly it is not a memorial to McCain’s courage, as we were told, but to the capture and defeat of Vietnam’s enemy. I understand we were at war. But to turn everything into a sideshow of goodwill for American tourists is the worst kind of deceit.
The upper right photo is the massive tomb of Ho Chi Minh, who died in 1969. The Soviets insisted his body be preserved in the same way Vladamir Lenin’s body is preserved in Moscow. A huge mausoleum was built where Ho Chi Minh’s body is displayed. Every evening, a band marches out and plays the national anthem. People line up in formation to sing and praise “Uncle Ho”. Every night. All these years. It was creepy. Some of our party thought Americans could learn something from such a ‘patriotic’ display. Folks, that’s not patriotism. That’s cult-like coercion. But that’s my opinion.
After Hanoi, we headed south to Ho Chi Mihn City. Everyone, even the residents, still refer to it as Saigon. Not only was the name different, but the environment felt different. In Hanoi, we were bombarded with memorized scripts of life in Vietnam and how advanced and happy everyone was. Yes, the people are doing well and the city has exploded with commerce and modern skyscrapers. But on the long bus ride into Hanoi, we saw evidence of crumbling concrete buildings, overgrown roadsides, and ramshackle villages. The highways are in horrible condition and the bus could only go about 50 miles an hour or less. It was a long drive. But in Saigon, we heard no rote scripts about life in Vietnam. Our guides were quite clear about how they felt about the North. It wasn’t an endorsement. It piqued our interest since it is now almost 50 years since Vietnam was unified. In Saigon, we had fun riding the cyclos. When Larry lived in Cambodia, he rode one to school and back. It was a treat when our route took us near the Continental Hotel, where Larry and his family stayed on their Christmas vacation back in 1959. But that’s another story.
We traveled by Hue, and visited Da Nang. The country has so much to offer. Everyone was friendly and we saw some lovely sights. Vietnam is a place of many emotions and many differences. We felt sad, intrigued, stimulated, freaked out (by the crazy scooter drivers), and happy. I’m glad they’re doing well and that their economy is growing. I feel sad that young people have been sheltered from their history and that their freedoms are restricted in ways many don’t even recognize.
I hope you enjoyed my post about the dichotomy of Vietnam. Check out my website at http://www.vcwilliamsauthor.com and sign up for my next post notifications. Have a great day!
Wanderin Walkers 